My Very Own Camisole/Tank Top

Gauge: 23 st and 28 rows to 4″ with #5 needles knit in the round
Yarn: 100% bamboo yarn (purchased from Discontinued Yarns) in the color purple
Other hardware: stitch markers (one different color to help you remember which one indicates the start of the round), and stitch holders or scrap yarn
Final measurements (measured when laying flat): bust 16 1/2″, length 22″, hips 19″, waist 15 1/2″

Lace pattern from Interweave Knits Lace Nightie (free pattern, Spring 07 issue):
Feather Border: (multiple of 12 sts)
Rnd 1: *Yo, ssk (see page 2), k7, k2tog, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Even-numbered Rnds 2–8: Knit.
Rnd 3: *Yo, k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 5: *Yo, k2, ssk, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 7: *Yo, k3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 9: *Yo, k4, sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso, k4, yo, k1; rep from * to end.
Rnd 10: Knit.
Rep Rnds 1–10 for patt.
Feather Panel: (multiple of 12 sts + 5)
Note: The decs at each end of this patt deliberately slant in the same direction
(k2tog), instead of slanting in opposite directions, like mirrored decs.
Row/Rnd 1: (RS when working back and forth in rows) K2tog, yo, k1, [yo, ssk, k7,
k2tog, yo, k1] 3 times, yo, k2tog.
Even-numbered Rows/Rnds 2–8: (WS when working back and forth in rows) Work
even in St st (knit on RS; purl on WS).
Row/Rnd 3: K2tog, yo, k1, [yo, k1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1, yo, k1] 3 times, yo, k2tog.
Row/Rnd 5: K2tog, yo, k1, [yo, k2, ssk, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1] 3 times, yo, k2tog.
Row/Rnd 7: K2tog, yo, k1, [yo, k3, ssk, k1, k2tog, k3, yo, k1] 3 times, yo, k2tog.
Row/Rnd 9: K2tog, yo, k1, [yo, k4, sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso, k4, yo, k1] 3 times, yo,
k2tog.
Row/Rnd 10: Work even in St st.
Rep Rows/Rnds 1–10 for patt.

NOTE about the lace: when I did the YOs, instead of scooping them like normal, I put the yarn on the needle in the opposite direction. When you do it this way, you are basically twisting the YOs when you knit over them in the following round. That makes the holes they make a lot smaller, eliminating the need for a camisole under the camisole for folks like me who like to show less skin.

How I did it:

CO 216 st (for 18 repeats of the lace pattern above). Place marker, join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker after stitch number 108 to divide in half (basically marks your right and left side) K for 3 rows.

Row 4: YO, k2tog for one round.

K for 3 row. Fold the fabric at the row with the YOs to create the picots. As you knit the next row, pick up and knit every other stitch of the cast on row along with the row you are knitting. So you k a st, then k a st plus a loop from the CO. Best to pull the inside half of the CO stitch and knit that.

Begin lace pattern above and knit lace in the round for 3 repeats.

This is where the “I’ve never written a pattern before” comes in so please be forgiving.

You will knit stockinette over 3 repeats of your lace, then begin lace as shown above working back and forth, three repeats. Then k in stockinette over 6 repeats of lace already finished, knit 3 lace panels worked back and forth as above, then knit in stockinette until you get to the marker that indicates the beginning of the round. You will make five rows worth of lace and stockinette for the bodice.

AT THE SAME TIME, after you make your first completed set of lace, you will begin decreases. Decrease 2 st every 4 rows. You will to a SSK just before the marker, k1, slip marker, k2tog. You will do 5 decreases. Knit in pattern as indicated above for 6 rows then begin increases. Increase every 6 rows 4 times. You will do a right slanting invisible increase, slip marker, k1 left slanting invisible increase. (NOTE: If I were to do this again, I’d leave off the increases to make it tighter at the top of the rib cage and more flattering).

When the 5 lace panel repeats are done, you k stockinette for 5 rounds. The following round, you do YO, k2tog. K 3 rows stockinette. Then fold the fabric towards you so it bends at the YO row. You’ll pick up and knit the row underneath similar to the way you did with the CO row. This *will* be a lot trickier! The hard part is figuring out which stitches to pick up and knit along with the one you are knitting. I messed up in a few places but no harm, no foul.

From this point on, you’re basically knitting a tube. After 2 inches, you begin binding off for the arm holes. BO 3 st on either side of the markers then one st on either side for 6 rows so that they curve nicely. You’ll decide where your front and back will be at this point and place a marker for the center front.
After all the stitches for the arms are bound off, you will bind off for the back. By now you will have to work back and forth, as opposed to in the round. Do this until the back is 3 ½”. K 17, bind of all stitches until the last 17, k those. Turn the work, p 16, turn the work. Bring that one stitch over the next ones then k 16. Turn, p 15 st, turn the work, bring the one stitch over the adjacent one, k 15. K in stockinette until the strap is 5 ½” long (or longer is you need it to be). Mirror this to make the other strap. Place the stitches on stitch holders.

For the front, you k in stockinette to the center marker. BO the st on either side of the marker. K back and forth in stockinette for 4” on both sides of the front. You’ll make straps same as you did for the back. K in stockinette until the strap is 5” long. Graft/weave/kitchener st the front and back straps together. Do a single crochet around the arm holes. Do single crochet around the neck and keyhole, add single crochet chain on each side of the keyhole to make a bow.

Block by spraying with water all over and shape/lay on a towel and dry.